Put the cheese puffs on the table first. They buy the kitchen a few more calm minutes and make the evening feel generous from the start.
Gruyere Gougeres
Warm French cheese puffs with a crisp shell and a tender, savory center.
Method
Heat the oven to 425 F / 220 C. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Bring the water, milk, butter, salt, and pepper to a full boil in a saucepan.
Add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until the dough pulls into a smooth ball and leaves a light film on the pan.
Move the dough to a bowl and beat in the eggs one at a time. The dough should be shiny and thick enough to hold a soft peak. Fold in all but a small handful of the Gruyere.
Scoop or pipe tablespoon-sized mounds 2 inches apart. Scatter with the reserved cheese.
Bake 15 minutes at 425 F / 220 C without opening the door. Reduce the oven to 350 F / 175 C and bake 18 to 22 minutes more, until deeply golden and dry to the touch. Serve warm.
A warm gougere makes the first pour feel like the beginning of the evening.
— Oysterdrive kitchen
These small puffs are the kitchen's first signal that dinner is becoming an occasion. The dough is a classic pate a choux: cooked briefly on the stove until it forms a glossy mass, then enriched with eggs and nutty Gruyere.
Bake them hot at first so they rise, then let the oven finish their golden, hollow centers. Serve while they are still warm enough to pull apart at the table.