Gruyere Gougeres

Upscale

NotADrink

Warm French cheese puffs with a crisp shell and a tender, savory center.

Time

1 h

Makes

20 to 24 puffs

Difficulty

Medium

Ingredients

1/2 cup water 8 tbsp unsalted butter 1 tsp fine sea salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 large eggs (room temperature) 1 cup Gruyere (finely grated; reserve a little for topping) 1 pinch black pepper (freshly ground) 1/2 cup milk (whole milk is always the best)

Keep the oven closed

Opening the oven early can deflate pate a choux. Wait until the puffs are deeply golden before checking them.

Method

Heat the oven to 425 F / 220 C. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Bring the water, milk, butter, salt, and pepper to a full boil in a saucepan.

Add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until the dough pulls into a smooth ball and leaves a light film on the pan.

Move the dough to a bowl and beat in the eggs one at a time. The dough should be shiny and thick enough to hold a soft peak. Fold in all but a small handful of the Gruyere.

Scoop or pipe tablespoon-sized mounds 2 inches apart. Scatter with the reserved cheese.

Bake 15 minutes at 425 F / 220 C without opening the door. Reduce the oven to 350 F / 175 C and bake 18 to 22 minutes more, until deeply golden and dry to the touch. Serve warm.

From the kitchen

A warm gougere makes the first pour feel like the beginning of the evening.

— Oysterdrive kitchen

Story so far

These small puffs are the kitchen's first signal that dinner is becoming an occasion. The dough is a classic pate a choux: cooked briefly on the stove until it forms a glossy mass, then enriched with eggs and nutty Gruyere. Bake them hot at first so they rise, then let the oven finish their golden, hollow centers. Serve while they are still warm enough to pull apart at the table.